Bringing the high street to airports
There are big changes afoot at Copenhagen Airport, which are set to have a huge impact on its fashion sales. More than 50% of the planned 5,000-6,000sqm expansion of airside retail space, which is due to open in two and a half years, will be devoted to fashion and accessories. And it certainly won’t be more of the same – vice president commercial affairs Henrik Busch plans on shaking up the fashion mix at Copenhagen not only with more big-name, high-end brands, but also with locally-produced mid-priced ranges that will attract a whole new clientele.
“The current offer is not exactly boring, but it is not international enough, and it is not strong enough because of our passenger mix,” says Busch. “In other European airports you cannot buy a shirt for under £100. In our airport, it is very important to find the balance between global luxury brands and locally-driven retailers. That’s a combination we will win on. We don’t want to scare people with brands they haven’t seen before, or with brands that are too expensive.”
Busch is keen to add big names to its current offer, which includes the likes of Gucci, Burberry and Hermès, but also wants to give exposure to less expensive local names. IC Companies is a case in point. The Danish company has been present at the airport for a number of years, but it has just signed a five-year agreement with Copenhagen Airport to substantially increase its presence there. New brands will come into play, and the men’s and women’s wear offers will be separated and enlarged. With women now accounting for 47% of the airport’s passengers – and generating 58% of turnover (more in fashion) – and leisure passenger numbers growing, Busch believes this type of development is just what the airport needs.
His own downtown experience is coming into play heavily as Copenhagen develops its fashion offer to meet the needs of the changing passenger profile. He has well over 100 potential brands and contacts on his list, and needs around 60 to 70 new names in place to complete his vision for a more eclectic fashion mix in the expanded terminal. This year Burberry, Sand, Cottonfeel and Soaked in Luxury are among the new names. “I am very happy with what I’ve seen so far. These brands have had a good impact,” he says. “There has been no cannibalism on the current assortment, and last year we experienced huge growth in fashion.”
London
Fashion at Heathrow and Gatwick is not a static thing. This booming sector, which accounts for 85,000sq feet (7,896sqm) at Heathrow, and a further 41,000sq feet (3,809sqm) at Gatwick, is set to rise significantly with the opening of Terminal 5 next spring, and with the expansion of airside space at Gatwick South at the end of next year. Names including Ted Baker, Kurt Geiger, Paul Smith and Tiffany are already signed up for T5.
But it is not just the new space that is receiving all the attention. In the last year, BAA has opened a Mango store in Gatwick North, Animal in Gatwick South, Reiss in Heathrow T2, Hugo Boss Woman in Heathrow T3, and most recently, Nation, a multi-brands board sports store at Stansted. Many of these are not the fashion names you usually see in a European airport.
“We started to grow this category because we identified the need for more fashion,” says BAA head of category for fashion and accessories, Hazel Curry. “In the past, there was the idea that you couldn’t sell fashion at airports – especially clothes, because passengers didn’t have the time or the interest. One of the reasons I was brought in was to challenge that view, and to bring what’s going on in the high street into the airport.”
This is not an easy task, despite the growing demand among airport passengers for more affordable, day-to-day names. Most high-street brands have no less than 5,000sq feet to play with it – in the airport, they would be lucky to get 1,000 sq feet. “They know we have their customers, but we have to find a way to work together to make their model work in our environment,” says Curry.
The new Mango shop, for example, operates in just 800sq feet. “They’re still learning about their mix – what to include and what to leave out. It’s a steep learning curve, but the customers love it… Luxury brands are well established, but not so much the high street brands,” she adds. “People don’t understand why not. When we give these brands opportunities, customers are responding very well.”
Geneva
Fashion sales at Geneva Airport are set to rise with the introduction of two new fashion outlets in recent months. As well as a new 123sqm Esprit shop at the train station, the Nuance Group opened a 32sqm airside Lacoste boutique in December to complement existing outlets Cocoon and Design House. The
boutique offers men’s and women’s wear, in addition to accessories, leathergoods and shoes. “Lacoste is a ready-to-wear fashion brand, and one of the best known French brands in the world,” says Mario Ritter, category manager Europe fashion, luxury, HG & diverse for the Nuance Group in Geneva. “It is very well known in Geneva and a perfect brand target for our business passengers. The product mix suits men and women of every age.”
Nearly two-thirds of Geneva’s passengers are men, aged mainly between 35-50, with the 18-34 age group following close behind. Although business travellers flying to European destinations are the airport heavyweights, there is also a very strong tourist base during the skiing season. The airport’s fashion mix reflects its customer mix, with top sales generated by Hugo Boss, and the Longchamp corner in Cocoon. Other brands featured at the airport include Ermenegildo Zegna, Bon Génie, Hermès, Jeans Story, Koba and Tie Rack. Lacoste is the latest addition to the airport’s high-end fashion offer.
Although fashion and accessories currently account for just 11% of total travel retail sales at Geneva, Ritter believes the new developments and increase in space dedicated to the category will result in slow, sure growth. “You need to present a clear and coherent fashion proposition, and introduce important brands which stand for lifestyle, identification, prestige and quality.”
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