Frontier Magazine
November 2011

Francis Gros: the future of the sunglasses category

In an addendum to the sunglasses coverage in the Nov/Dec issue of Frontier, Luxottica group travel retail director Francis Gros (pictured, left) tells David Davies about its hopes for the future of this dynamic category.

Frontier: In your view, what were the main ideas and themes to emerge from this year's Sunglasses Workshop in Cannes?

Francis Gros: I think the key message that we wanted to convey was that sunglasses is a category seeing huge growth and success; however, this success is due to the efforts of retailers and supplier working together to improve and manage the category together in a more detailed and sophisticated way. Luxottica Travel Retail has been able to demonstrate that there is a material return on investment for time and money spent on the sunglasses category in travel-retail, as well as our category working as a penetration lever for all retailers.

I hope the general take-out was that the category is growing because of a proactive approach from retailers and suppliers. Also, that the sunglasses category responds to increased activity and category management initiatives with excellent growth.



You spoke of the capability for sunglasses to become a top ten TR category. What are the primary means by which this can be achieved?

We first set that challenge when sunglasses was ranked 16th back in 2008. In 2010, the category was ranked 12th and this year we are set to reach 11th. The primary means of sunglasses achieving our objective is through category management. This entails breaking down the approach to the category into individual work-streams and then applying best-practice and innovation to each. As I said at the workshop, it is easier to improve one hundred things by 1% than one thing by 100%. Effectively it is about micro-managing the detail of the category to provide optimum customer-focused sunglasses retailing in travel retail.

What are the primary ways in which Luxottica works with TR retailers to bring about further growth?

Looking at the success that we have seen to date in our work with key travel retailers, I think the main opportunity is about consistency. We need to take the work that is in many cases doubling and even trebling sales at specific locations, and then roll these out across all travel-retail venues. In this way, we will make travel retail THE expert channel for sunglasses shopping.

Is there a recent example of a particular airport success story that springs to mind?

One of the best examples of success is at Madrid Airport this summer. Luxottica and World Duty Free Group implemented our first multi-brand, category-led outpost promotion. Here, World Duty Free Group gave our category excellent promotional space in the heart of the store, for the very first time. Luxottica delivered a marketing concept that promoted different brands relating to different consumers, who characterise different types of holidays. Six brands, clear segmentation, colourful high-quality visuals, multi-language communication, bespoke fixtures and use of digital media. It was a very strong execution and the results, at +350% sell-out, were truly amazing. In fact, this promotion matched the very best performing promotions in any category for this space. Not surprisingly, Aldeasa was awarded the best promotional initiative award during this year’s Sunglasses Award!

What should be the priorities now for retailers and suppliers in growing sunglasses even further?

Our priority needs to be maintaining focus on our category. We are delivering the strongest growth in travel-retail, because retailers now consider us as a core part of the offer, and sunglasses is a ‘hot’ category.

However, I want to keep repeating that the sunglasses category is not close to peaking in growth. Travel-retailers need to keep pushing us supplier and I guarantee that Luxottica Travel Retail will keep pushing them. Only then can we both maximise the opportunity.

What would you say to suppliers and retailers who might want to get involved in next year's Sunglasses Workshop? What is your general approach to industry collaboration of this kind?

For any travel retailers who are not talking to us already about collaborations to develop the category, please come and talk to us. We have the tools, the expertise, the knowledge and proven successes to help every retailer in the travel retail industry.

Uniquely, Luxottica Travel Retail has brought its supplier competitors along on this journey to create a true category approach. We see this collaboration continuing with them also, as all suppliers will benefit as we work together to grow the sunglasses pie.

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Friday 18th, November, 2011

Author: David Davies

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